I’ve been to Kraftwork a number of times now and I think I like it. I mean, it’s okay. There’s that one sandwich that’s really delicious, but not much else that really stands out on the (recently reconsidered) menu. The draught list is amazing, although it’s like doing surgery with a shotgun; put enough beers on tap and you’re sure to get something right, no?

But you can fix menus and curate beer lists to make it seem like you know what you’re doing, rather than not wanting to get it wrong. What you can’t really change is physical plant. If you want to be clubbed over the head with concept, Kraftwork is the place. Without even mentioning the clunker of a name, you know it’s stylized to a fault, which really distracts from the things that probably brought you there in the first place. Did I mention how NOISY it is? Now, I know I’m getting older, but when you have a DJ spinning dance music during dinner, at a place that doesn’t have a dance floor, you’re going out of your way to seem silly. I mean, at least the Abbaye had sensible brunch DJs.

Thing I hear from fans of craft beer and gastropubs in general though is that the prices are simply too high. I can get a pint of Russian River Blind Pig for less than I can a tulip of the same at Kraftwork. And while the taps are more plentiful than other neighborhood bars, I don’t get the sense that more thought went into selecting what’s on them. Instead of feeling like you’re getting a deal on something that’s been carefully considered, you know you’re overpaying for something you can probably get somewhere else in town.

Will I keep going back? Absolutely. I have faith that Adam Ritter will get it right and, hell, who I am to say anything: the place is usually full to overflowing, which is a good problem to have in this economy. If they can build a tasty, inexpensive menu around their beer can chicken sandwich, then they’re already on the right track. Where else can you get a Mikkeller Breakfast Beer Geek Imperial Stout at 10:30 on a Sunday morning?

N.B. he doesn’t highlight any spots that deliver or even are known for take-out. For what it’s worth I’m thrilled that he didn’t profile the execrable, overpriced Rustica in NoLibs either. Do I even have to mention that I’m absolutely in love with Zavino’s Kennett pie?

Want more Lazor in your life? Follow him on Twitter. He’s a hoot. He also contributes to City Paper’s Meal Ticket, which has swept me off my feet since Kirsten Henri left for Philly Mag. Now with Adam Erace! They’re a powerhouse!

Part of the problem is that people will settle for bad pizza. I would not. I tried pizzas all over town in a quest to find something I could honestly endorse without reservation. It was impossible. People would recommend their favorite spots and I’d bring a pie home only to discover their favorite wasn’t up to snuff.

Helen and I had been feasting on Gianfranco’s pizza, which I would pick up down at 3rd and Market. It wasn’t bad and was a far cry better than most of the delivery spots that serve Port Fishington. (I’m sorry Rustica, but your pizzas are all too smoky and soggy for my personal taste. Santucci’s isn’t bad, actually, but outside the delivery range.)

We decided enough was a enough and driving that distance for pizza was just silly. We searched the neighborhood for something decent, but Cassizzi’s wasn’t cutting it. We finally had to break down and take the nuclear option: calling ahead for pickup at Tacconelli’s.

I’ve put this off for some time. We know it by reputation and had even tried it a couple times, but weren’t so blown away that it seemed worth placing a pizza order at 11 a.m. Pizza is a spontaneous dinner!

Well, after two consecutive nights of Tacconelli’s pizza, I can safely say we’ve been converted. It’s worth the hassle, especially if you live within five minutes drive of Tacconelli’s like we do. We’re no longer pizza nomads, wandering Philly’s desert.

Osso buco, originally uploaded by J T. Ramsay.

The iPhone photo doesn’t do it justice, but Helen’s osso buco was nothing short of amazing. That risotto was divine and the meat fell right off the bone. Recipes like this one are what wintertime is all about: slow-cooked food that gets you right where you live.

The homemade tiramisu we had for dessert was to die for. I washed it all down with a delicious Rogue Chocolate Stout and it was time to call it a night.

Happy 2010, everybody!

But there was light at the end of the tunnel. In the two years we’ve lived up here we’ve found some great food, whether it’s Memphis Taproom around the corner when we’re just looking for a quick bite and something to drink, or Bistro Juliana for the delightful Italian food we loved so much in our old neighborhood. But that’s not all! I recently made an early morning run to Czerw’s on Tilton St. for several pounds of smoked kielbasa and fresh-made pierogies. If there is a heaven, I hope it smells like Czerw’s. There’s great Mexican at Las Cazuelas, or quick Mexican at Taco Riendo. We’ve even found some decent pizza, having recently tried Santucci’s upside-down square pie. Now we feel like we have more options than we ever did back in old Pennsport.

We’re not alone. Our neighborhood has recently been a new focal point in local cuisine, featuring both newcomers and old. The amazing Rick Nichols recently ventured up Richmond St. in Port Richmond, highlighting all the wondeful Polish food the neighborhood offers. Think that sounds delicious? Then you should spend a Saturday afternoon with him on his Edible World Food Tour that’s being organized by First Person Arts! (I’ll add that you should check out the other New Wave Cafe up on Allegheny Avenue for a few rounds of strong Polish beer and more than your fair share of kielbasa and pierogies.)

Metro contributor and Foobooz writer Arthur Etchells also reps for our ‘hood in his recent article, “River Ward Steps Up.” He talks about some of the restaurants I mentioned above, as well as The Pickled Heron, a restaurant that will bring finer dining to Frankford Avenue later this spring. They also hope to take part in River Ward Restaurant Week! That’s really exciting, especially since there was some speculation about whether or not they would still be opening as the economy took the plunge. I can’t wait to try their menu!

When our friends Rick and Grace recently moved up to Letterly St. just two doors up the block, we assured them it was a great neighborhood that we’d been beta-testing for over two years. It’s a great area that blends old favorites like Jovan’s Place and Memphis Taproom. We have Greensgrow Farms and Philadelphia Brewing Company around the corner, too! Now when you think of Port Fishington, think food!